Blog Rss

MONSTERA DELICIOSA VARIEGATA - tips for care

Wed, 21 Feb 2024 22:07:00 +0100

Everything you need to know about the most sought-after rare variegated plant of the last years. Monstera deliciosa variegata albo has been on the top of the wish-lists of most tropical plant lovers in recent years. It is clear from the name itself that this is a variegated variant of the classic monstera deliciosa, and from the word ALBO the color of the variegation is white (the most common form, and among the most available, there are also plants with yellow variegation called Monstera deliciosa variegata AUREA and with green variegation referred to as Monstera deliciosa variegata MINT, which we also have on offer).

Plants of MONSTERA VARIEGATA VARIEGATA ALBO in sale are HERE.

Why is monstera deliciosa variegata albo so popular?

The answer is easy: for its easy elegance and the endless possibility of variegated variations of individual leaves = each leaf is original and thus the whole plant is original, no one will ever find the same plant. A complete and unique one-of-a-kind. It is becoming (thanks to Welovetropicalplants too) more and more available, and more than one lover of tropical plants has several pieces of this white-green queen at home.

Monstera deliciosa variegata - DESCRIPTION

Monstera deliciosa variegata is a variegated monstera from the araceae family. It is a climbing houseplant, native to South America, the mature plant produces perforated leaves and fruits, thanks to the taste and delicacy of which the monstera deliciosa plant took its name. Ripe fruits are edible with a distinct taste of a combination of banana and pineapple.

Monstera deliciosa variegata - CARE

Temperature: optimum temperature in the range of 18-26 °C, long-term temperatures below +10 °C can damage the plant
Humidity: at least 50%, our plants are grown at 60-70 % humidity
Light: it requires enough diffused light, it must not come into contact with direct sunlight, which will permanently damage it (there will appear brown spots unaesthetic)
Substrate: it can be grown in many different substrates: in hydroponics, in inert mixtures or in well-draining mixtures, our plants are grown in a mixture of long-pile coconut fiber, perlite and additives
Watering: if the plant is planted in a drainingmixture, it needs to be allowed to almost dry before the next watering, in the summer months and at higher temperatures watering will be more frequent than in winter at low temperatures
Fertilization: we recommend fertilizing with a liquid fertilizer dissolved in watering water, we use 20-20-20 with other additives

Monstera deliciosa variegata albo - MULTIPLICATION

Monstera deliciosa variegata albo is most easily propagated by cuttings. Each cutting must contain at least one leaf with a plant node and ideally also an aerial root, which will facilitate the cutting to take root faster and more safely. You can find more information about how to make monstera deliciosa variegata albo steak here, including a more detailed photo guide.

Virulence

Monstera deliciosa variegata is poisonous to animals and humans, but in small quantities it only causes increased drooling and nausea, but of course we do not recommend trying it.

Repotting and pot size

On the topic of transplanting, we have prepared a separate article for you, How to transplant monstera deliciosa variegata albo, in which you will learn everything you need to know. Coming soon.

Why to buy monstera deliciosa variegata albo from Welovetropicalplants:

We are growers, not resellers
We offer a wide selection of many plants of different variegations - fullmoon leaves, halfmoon leaves, mature plants, rooted cuttings, less variegated pieces and much more
We have experience since 2020
The price - we are trying to get this plant to all plant lovers
Our plants grow only under natural light - we have no artificial lighting, we benefit from the advantage of 3391 hours of sunshine per year (The sunniest months in San Sebastiano al Vesuvio are June, July and August, when the sun shines an average of 13 hours 21 minutes a day. Least sunny months in San Sebastiano al Vesuvio: January, November and December receive an average of 7 hours 16 minutes of sunshine daily.)

Do you want to read more articles? Go back to BLOG.

COCHINEAL - 4 tips how to win agains COCHINEAL

Thu, 29 Feb 2024 21:18:00 +0100

The Cochineal is a parasite that affects ornamental and indoor plants, feeding on the sap of the leaves and stems. An attack of cochineal insects leads, in the long run, to the weakening of the plant and, over time, to its death. It develops very quickly when temperatures rise for example in summer, to slow down the spread in the colder winter periods.

The Cochineal is a very common phytophagous insect but also difficult to treat, due to the nature of the parasite. It presents many forms and aspects, it is a parasite which, with the exception of the young mobile forms, adheres to the parts of the plant where it is difficult to reach, it is covered by wax or lacquer emissions or covered by a follicle called scudetto, of various shapes which protects it from natural hazards. The Cochineal can produce honeydew, in some cases, a sugary substance that attracts other insects, often ants, which is why sometimes the presence of the two is simultaneous. The emissions and the shield help to hide and protect the forms of cochineal from predators and in our case from treatments, therefore we must adopt techniques or use products that allow us to reach it, to overcome its natural barriers, it is therefore also important how you treat it and not just the product you use.

Cochineal remedies

Marseille soap against cochineal

Take 10 g of Marseille soap and 5 g of sunflower seed oil, mix it well and create an emulsion, dilute the emulsion in a liter of hot water and carefully distribute the mixture on the infected plant, trying to spray it as much as possible to reaching the cochineal on the entire infested part, treating only a small part would cause the problem to recur shortly afterwards.
We can spray directly 3 times in the evening every 3 days on the affected part to eliminate the cochineal. It works by asphyxiation, impeding the natural breathing of insects.

Neem oil against cochineal

It is a natural oil obtained from the azadirachta indica plant.
In the past it was already used to fight some parasites and diseases. In India, an important insecticide belonging to the azadirachtine class was extracted and synthesized from this plant. Acts as a phage repellent (disgusting agent) and growth inhibitor.

Alcohol against cochineal

It is one of the most used, simple and effective remedies for eliminating cottony scale insects and shield scale insects: just dilute it with water and spray it on the leaves. Alternatively, you can also wipe the alcohol directly on the leaves with a soaked cotton ball. After carrying out this operation, rinse the treated parts with plenty of water to eliminate alcohol residues from the plant.

Mineral oils against cochineal

An excellent system for eliminating cochineal insects consists in the use of white mineral oil which causes the death of cochineal insects through suffocation. Once sprayed on the infected plants, this product creates a sort of film which, by covering the scale insects, will cause their death by suffocation. Mineral oils have been used effectively for a long time in the control and fight against scale insects. They are extraction oils. mineral, are soluble and exert an asphyxiating action on scale insects, which, being little or not at all mobile, are unable to free themselves from this covering which prevents them from breathing, leading to death by asphyxiation. At a professional level, the oils are 'activated', that is, associated with an insecticide to perform a double function, toxicity and asphyxiation.

WAX FLOWER PLANT - how to care for hoya

Wed, 26 Jun 2024 10:49:00 +0200

Do you want to get a hoya - a wax flower plant? Or do you already have some at home and you don't know how to care for it, and you want to treat it to the best? If you answered yes at least once, continue reading:

Hoya - the wax flower plant belongs to a very large group of tropical plants of the Apocynaceae family, in their land of origin they are liana-like plants, which grow in the form of bushes or semi-shrubs. There are over 600 known species of hoyas and they come from Asia. In our European conditions, hoya is a houseplant, mainly climbing and recently very popular.

We can divide them according to the shape of the leaf, the color of the flower, the size of the leaves, the way of growth.

Since the hoya is a vine-like plant, it is a good idea to provide it with a support on which it can climb. The holder can have any shape, for example from a metal wire in the shape of a circle.

Why is hoya - wax flower plant so popular?

non-toxic to humans and animals
cleans the air
easy to care for
suitable for beginners
accepts irregular watering, does not fear the drying out of the substrate

How to care for hoya - wax flower plant?

Light: Hoya loves a lot of light, indirect sunlight. Direct sunlight can cause irreversible damage to leaves. The ideal location for the hoya is near windows to ensure sufficient light, but obviously without direct sunlight. Give it enough light and it will repay you with rapid growth and lots of flowers.

Substrate:Hoyas love a free-draining substrate, they will appreciate a free-draining aroid mix (a mixture of perlite, coir with long and short fibres, peat), but can be grown successfully in other types of substrate, some prefer semi- hydro or pon. We grow hoya in sphagnum moss and based on our results we can say that they like it and are satisfied.

Watering: The only thing hoya is susceptible to is overwatering. Hoya does not like to be watered too much, this can lead to rotting of the roots and therefore the death of the entire plant. It is recommended to water the hoya only when the substrate is almost dry, in some cases even after the substrate is completely dry - you will know more about it below. For irrigation we recommend using rainwater, which is more suitable for all indoor plants. We fertilize our plants regularly throughout the year. At home we recommend using a normal liquid fertilizer for green plants diluted in water according to the instructions on the package. We fertilize alternately with watering (which means we water once with clean water, once with clean water with fertilizer).

Humidity and temperature: The optimal temperature for growing hoya is 16-27°C, temperatures below 10°C can be destructive for hoya. At higher temperatures, the leaves may begin to yellow and fall off. During the summer season it is possible to move the hoya outdoors, always away from direct sunlight. Humidity is not very important, but with higher humidity the hoya is happier and grows faster. The ideal value is around 60%, lower humidity can slow growth and produce fewer flowers.

Propagation: Hoya is propagated by stem cuttings, preferably with two nodes, which root better in sphagnum moss, which must always be kept slightly humid. Once the root system is sufficiently developed, the cutting can be transplanted into the preferred substrate. We transplant the rooted cuttings into sphagnum moss and into a very small pot.

Repotting: Hoya generally likes to be compact and tight in the pot, so repot it about every 2-3 years and only use a slightly larger pot. Use the same substrate that the plant was used to.

What not to do with Hoya:

do not repot too often
do not transplant into a large pot: Hoya likes to be cramped
do not water excessively, once every 10/14 days is sufficient
do not spray on the flowers
do not cut long stems: new leaves will soon emerge

How to make hoya flower:

In general it can be said that making a plant flower can be a difficult task. Each plant has different needs, but we can safely say that making hoya flower is not that difficult. So how do you do it:

Allow the substrate to dry completely.
Move the hoya to a brighter location (so it absorbs as much sunlight as possible)
Water the plant abundantly with water and fertilizer, but only so that the substrate is not too wet.
Keep the humidity above 40%.
In the morning you can spray hoya.

The division of hoyas according to the shape of the leaf:

Needle-like leaves: hoya insularis, hoya retusa, hoya spartioides
Broad-leaved
Small-leaved
Heart-shaped leaves - hoya kerrii
Elongated leaves - hoya burmanica
Variegated leaves – hoya heuschkeliana, hoya macrophylla variegata, hoya callistophylla

Discover our collection of hoyas - wax flower plants or variegated hoyas.

PLATYCERIUM - the basic information

Wed, 08 Jan 2025 22:37:00 +0100

Platycerium is a genus of epiphytic ferns in the family Polypodiaceae. These ferns are commonly known as staghorn ferns due to the shape of their fronds, which resemble the antlers of a stag or deer. Platyceriums are native to tropical and subtropical regions of the world, including parts of Africa, Southeast Asia, Australia, and Central and South America.

Here’s a breakdown of key points about Platycerium (staghorn ferns):

Physical description

Fronds: Platyceriums have two distinct types of fronds:

Sterile fronds: These are the large, flat fronds that often resemble the shape of deer antlers. These fronds help the plant collect moisture and nutrients, and they can be quite large.
Fertile fronds: These are smaller and less conspicuous. They are produced for reproduction and usually grow from the center of the plant.

Growth Habit: They are epiphytic, meaning they grow on trees or rocks without being parasitic (in nature). They can be found in rainforests or other humid environments, where they attach to tree trunks or branches using their roots.
Size: Depending on the species and growing conditions, staghorn ferns can vary greatly in size. Some species can grow as large as almost 1 meter in diameter, while others are smaller and more compact.

Types of Platycerium

Here are the platycerium species (source http://www.halling.com/platyceriums)

Platycerium alcicorne
Platycerium andinum
Platycerium bifurcatum
Platycerium coronarium
Platycerium elephantotis
Platycerium ellisii
Platycerium grande
Platycerium hillii
Platycerium holttumii
Platycerium madagascariense
Platycerium quadridichotomum
Platycerium ridleyi
Platycerium stemaria
Platycerium stemaria 'Laurentii'
Platycerium superbum
Platycerium veitchii
Platycerium wandae
Platycerium wallichii
Platycerium willinckii

Than exist many hybrids:

Welovetropicalplants offer these RARE species of platycerium:

Here you will find our wide and complete assortment of platycerium.

Growing conditions

Light: Platyceriums thrive in bright, indirect light. While they do well in a shaded forest understory in their native habitats, they need sufficient light to grow well in cultivation. However, direct sunlight can scorch their fronds.
Temperature & Humidity: They prefer warm temperatures and high humidity, making them ideal for tropical or subtropical climates. They can be grown indoors in temperate regions, but humidity levels need to be maintained. A humidity level of around 50% or higher is ideal.
Watering: These ferns like to be kept moist, but not waterlogged. The roots should never sit in water. Watering should be done regularly, but it's important to let the plant dry out between waterings to avoid root rot.

Mounting & Potting

Mounting: Platyceriums are commonly mounted on pieces of wood, tree fern plaques, or hanging baskets in cultivation. Mounting allows them to grow naturally as epiphytes, with their roots free to cling to the surface and absorb moisture from the air.
Potting: If growing in a pot, a well-draining potting mix is essential. A mix designed for orchids or other epiphytic plants works well, providing aeration and drainage.

Care Tips

Watering: Water the fern thoroughly when the soil is dry to the touch, but avoid waterlogging the roots.
Fertilizing: Fertilize Platyceriums every few weeks during the growing season (spring and summer) with a diluted liquid fertilizer. Avoid over-fertilizing, as this can burn the roots and fronds.
Cleaning: Occasionally wipe the fronds with a damp cloth to remove dust or debris, as this helps the plant to better absorb moisture from the air.

ROOT ROT: How to identify and prevent it

Tue, 14 Jan 2025 22:54:00 +0100

Root rot is a disease that affects the root system of plants, causing it to literally rot. This problem compromises the roots' ability to support the aerial parts of the plant, leading to rapid decline in the stem and leaves.

Symptoms of Root Rot

Symptoms can vary, but the most common include:

Gradual wilting of the plant.
Brown spots appearing on the leaves.
Rotten areas on the stem.
A distinctive rotting smell from the soil or plant.
Stunted, slow, and weak growth.
Yellowing leaves lacking their usual vibrant green color.

Often, the first signs of the disease manifest on the roots. Healthy roots are strong, vigorous, and light-colored (especially young roots). In contrast, diseased roots appear dark, lack new growth, and emit a foul smell. Unfortunately, common pots often do not allow us to observe the roots unless the plant is unpotted.

Treatment of root rot: Can the plant be saved?

By the time symptoms are noticeable, it is often too late to save the plant. In some cases, chemical treatments can be attempted to stop the progression, but success is not guaranteed. This is why focusing on prevention is far more effective and simpler than trying to cure root rot.

Main causes of root rot

In home environments, root rot is most commonly caused by overwatering. Often, we unintentionally create the perfect conditions for the disease by neglecting factors that influence the water-to-root balance.

Key factors include:

Amount and frequency of watering: Overwatering or watering too frequently can be fatal.
Type of pot:
- Wide, shallow pots promote better soil aeration.
- Tall, narrow pots slow down drying.
- Transparent pots, ideal for plants like orchids, anthuriums, philodendrons, and monsteras, allow root monitoring and faster drying.
- Oversized pots increase the risk of prolonged water retention.
Use of saucers: If left filled with water, they can keep the soil saturated for too long.
Soil composition: A non-draining or unsuitable substrate increases the risk of root rot. Each plant has specific needs depending on its species, the season, and its environment.

Prevention: How to avoid root rot

To prevent root rot, it is essential to:

Understand your plant’s needs: Learn about its water requirements and the most suitable soil type.
Choose the right pot: Use a pot of the correct size, with drainage holes and, if possible, small feet to encourage water runoff.
Opt for a draining substrate: Favor well-aerated mixes, particularly for tropical plants like orchids and monsteras.
Avoid water stagnation: Regularly check saucers and empty them if needed.
Moderate watering: Ensure the soil feels dry to the touch before watering again.

Conclusion

Root rot is a disease that can often be avoided with proper plant care. Prevention is always better than cure: by paying attention to the specific needs of your plant, the type of pot, and the soil used, you can drastically reduce the risk of root rot and keep your plants healthy and thriving over time.

HOW TO MOUNT Platycerium on the board: Step by step

Thu, 23 Jan 2025 00:18:00 +0100

Transform your Platycerium into a stunning composition by mounting it onto a board, just as it thrives naturally in the wild. Below, you'll find a simple, step-by-step guide to help you create a beautiful display that showcases the fern's unique, sculptural charm. Let’s get started!

Materials Needed to mount platycerium on the board:

A healthy Platycerium (staghorn fern), we used Platycerium Omo Polar Bear
Sphagnum moss (lightly soaked)
The mounting board (cork, disk of the tree…), we used bamboo kitchen cutter board
Drill machine (+ drill bit, we used nr. 3,5)
Big needle (could be the plastic one too)
Kitchen bowl (the diametre should be circa double of the diametre of the vase of platycerium), it will bet he form for the sphagnum nest for the platycerium
Fishing line, twine, or floral wire
Paper tape, the original vase of platycerium, materiál to fill the vase (plastic, paper, cotton), the small kitchen bowl
Scissors or gardening scissors, pencil, a hook or hanging mechanism for the board

Step-by-Step Instructions: How to mount platycerium to the mounting board:

1. Preparing the mounting board

If your mount board doesn’t already have a way to hang it, drill a hole or attach a hook to the back.
Ensure the board is clean and large enough to accommodate the plant.
Draw the perimeter of the kitchen bowl with a pencil at the place where the platycerium will be fixed.
Mark 8 points for drilling and drill the holes a drill machine.

2. Preparation of the sphagnum and sphagnum nest

Place the sphagnum in water for about 2-3 minutes until it’s fully hydrated and pliable.
Squeeze out excess water so it’s damp, not dripping.
Preparation of the sphagnum nest: fill and fix with the paper tape the original vase of platycerium completely (you can use the plastic, paper, cotton), it serves to create a gap in the sphagnum nest for the subsequent placement of the platycerium.
Place the filled vase with the upper side facing the bottom of the kitchen bowl, preferably at a 45-degree angle.
Fill the empty space with moistened sphagnum moss and press down well.
Carefully pull out the whole sphagnum nest and place it only on the board.

3. Positioning of the Platycerium

Identify the sterile fronds (the rounded, protective fronds) and ensure they will face outward.
Place the platycerium in the sphagnum nest in the correct position.

4. Securing of the platycerium

Wrap fishing line, twine, or floral wire around the sphagnum moss and board using the needle.
Pass the needle with the threaded line through the individual drilled holes and continuously across the folded nest so that the sphagnum nest and the platycerium are firmly attached. If you don't have a long enough fishing line, you can extend it with another piece, make sure to tie it well.
Make sure to secure it firmly and tightly adequate. We recommend at least 8 stitches across the nest.

5. Trim Excess Material:

If there are any excess lengths of fishing line (twine or wire), trim them neatly.
Ensure the securing material doesn’t obstruct the growth of the fronds or rhizomes.

6. Hang the Mounted Platycerium:

Choose a spot with bright, indirect light and good airflow.
Avoid direct sunlight, which can scorch the fronds.

Discover our wide collection of Platycerium.

Aspidistra Care Guide: How to Grow and Care for the Cast Iron Plant

Thu, 06 Feb 2025 22:55:00 +0100

Aspidistra, commonly known as the Cast Iron Plant, is a favorite among plant enthusiasts due to its resilience and low-maintenance care requirements. Native to East Asia, this hardy plant can thrive in conditions where many others struggle, making it an excellent choice for both beginners and seasoned gardeners.
In this article, we’ll explore everything you need to know to successfully grow and care for Aspidistra.

Why Choose the Aspidistra (Cast Iron Plant)?

Aspidistra is well-known for its ability to withstand neglect, low light, and fluctuating temperatures. This makes it an ideal plant for homes, offices, and shaded garden areas. Key benefits include:

Tolerates low light conditions
Requires minimal watering
Resistant to pests and diseases
Can survive temperature fluctuations
Long-lived and slow-growing

Ideal Growing Conditions for Aspidistra

While Aspidistra is known for its adaptability, providing the right conditions will ensure it thrives.

- Light Requirements

Aspidistra prefers low to medium indirect light. It can tolerate deep shade, making it an excellent choice for dimly lit rooms or shaded outdoor spaces. However, avoid direct sunlight, as it can scorch the leaves.

- Temperature & Humidity

Aspidistra is remarkably cold-tolerant for a tropical-looking plant and can withstand temperatures around -10°C to -15°C for short periods when established outdoors in a sheltered location. Prolonged freezing temperatures can cause leaf damage and may affect the roots, especially in containers.

- Soil Requirements

A well-draining potting mix is essential for Aspidistra. A mix containing peat, perlite, and compost works well. If planting outdoors, choose soil with good drainage to prevent root rot.

- Watering Requirements

Aspidistra prefers to dry out slightly between waterings. Water deeply but infrequently—typically once every 10–14 days indoors, or when the top inch of soil feels dry. Avoid overwatering, as this can lead to root rot.

- Fertilizing Aspidistra

Fertilize sparingly. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength every 4–6 weeks during the growing season (spring and summer). Reduce feeding in the fall and winter.

Planting and Repotting Aspidistra

Aspidistra is a slow grower and does not require frequent repotting. Repot only when the plant outgrows its container, typically every 3–4 years. Choose a pot that is slightly larger than the current one and refresh the soil to provide nutrients.

Common Aspidistra Problems & Troubleshooting

Although Aspidistra is tough, it can experience some issues if not cared for properly.

- Yellow Aspidistra Leaves

Usually a sign of overwatering. Allow the soil to dry out more between waterings.

- Brown Leaf Tips

Can be caused by low humidity, excessive fertilizer, or underwatering.

- Pests and Diseases

While rare, spider mites or scale insects may occasionally appear. Wipe the leaves with a damp cloth or use insecticidal soap if needed.

How to Propagate Aspidistra

Aspidistra can be propagated through division. The best time to divide is during repotting:

Gently remove the plant from its pot.
Use a sharp, clean knife to divide the rhizomes, ensuring each section has at least a few leaves.
Replant in fresh soil and water lightly.
Keep the new plants in a shaded area while they establish roots.

Aspidistra Varieties

Aspidistra is best known for its classic green foliage, but there are many beautiful and unusual varieties with distinctive leaf colors, patterns, and variegation. This makes Aspidistra an excellent choice not only for beginners, but also for collectors looking for unique foliage plants.

Aspidistra elatior

Aspidistra elatior is the classic Cast Iron Plant and one of the most reliable varieties to grow. Its long, dark green leaves form a dense, elegant clump and tolerate low-light conditions remarkably well. It is an excellent choice for indoor growing and shaded outdoor areas.

Aspidistra Milky Way

Aspidistra 'Milky Way' is a striking collector's variety known for its dark green leaves covered with numerous small, pale spots. The distinctive pattern creates an effect reminiscent of a starry night sky, making it particularly attractive to foliage plant collectors.

Aspidistra Asahi

Aspidistra 'Asahi' is a highly sought-after variety known for its striking variegation. Mature leaves can develop attractive pale or creamy sections that contrast beautifully with the darker green portions of the foliage. Its unusual appearance makes it a popular choice among Aspidistra collectors.

Aspidistra Hoshi Zora

Aspidistra 'Hoshi Zora' is a distinctive Japanese cultivar appreciated for its dark green foliage decorated with numerous light-colored spots. The name evokes a "starry sky," which perfectly reflects the characteristic appearance of its leaves.

Aspidistra Akebono

Aspidistra 'Akebono' is a beautiful variegated cultivar with attractive lighter markings across its foliage. Its elegant coloration makes it an interesting choice for collectors who appreciate unusual and decorative Aspidistra varieties.

Aspidistra Stars and Stripes

Aspidistra 'Stars and Stripes' is a distinctive variegated variety characterized by contrasting markings and stripes across its elongated leaves. The combination of dark green foliage and lighter patterns gives this cultivar a particularly decorative appearance.

Variegated Aspidistra

Variegated Aspidistra varieties are especially appreciated for their decorative foliage. Depending on the cultivar, leaves can display cream, yellow, white, or lighter green stripes, spots, or sections against a darker green background. Bright, indirect light can help maintain attractive coloration, while intense direct sunlight should generally be avoided.

Rare and Collector Aspidistra

Beyond the classic green form, Aspidistra offers an impressive selection of unusual cultivars with distinctive foliage patterns. Their relatively slow growth and unique appearance make them particularly interesting for specialist plant collections.

When choosing an Aspidistra, consider both the appearance of the foliage and the growing conditions available in your home or garden. All varieties benefit from well-draining soil, appropriate watering, and protection from intense direct sunlight.

Explore our collection of Aspidistra plants to discover different green, spotted, striped, and variegated varieties for your indoor or shaded garden collection.

Conclusion

Aspidistra is the perfect plant for those looking for an elegant yet low-maintenance addition to their indoor or outdoor space. With minimal care and attention, it can provide lush greenery for years to come. Whether you’re a seasoned plant lover or a beginner, the Cast Iron Plant is a reliable and rewarding choice. Happy growing!

ANTHURIUM CARE - everything you need to know - How to grow and care ANTHURIUM

Thu, 26 Feb 2026 14:55:00 +0100

How to care for ANTHURIUM: The best tips from the grower

Are you planning to get an anthurium or are you already its proud owner? Or do you just want to review the most important points in anthurium care? So you are in the right place. Below you will find some basic and important tips for anthurium care directly from the grower. We will bring a complete (but simplified) version of the manual on how to care for anthurium easily and successfully.

ANTHURIUM CARE

Light and position: Anthurium needs enough bright, diffused light, without direct sunlight, for proper growth. Place your anthurium in a spot with diffused light, direct sunlight would cause irreversible leaf burn.

NOTE: Plants in our glasshouses are growing only under natural light - we have an incredible advantage of benefit from the advantage of 3391 hours of sunshine per year

How do I know if the plant has enough or not enough light? Short answer: if the new leaf of the plant after the end of the growth phase is slightly larger than the previous leaf, then the plant has enough light. If the leaf is smaller (after growth), then the plant needs more light, you can try to move it to a brighter place or buy artificial lighting, of which there are many on the market.

Temperature: Anthurium is a tropical plant, it loves warm places. The ideal temperature for anthurium is between 18-26 °C, temperatures below +15 °C can irreversibly damage the plant. Prevent significant fluctuations in temperature, wind and wind flow.

Watering:

One of the most important things about watering is the quality of the water. The best water for watering all the plants is rainwater, which doesn' contain the salts, minerals and other compounds. Of course, I understand, no everyone has the opportunity to collect rainwater or to get it in another way. Then the list is followed by filtered, purified, baby water, etc. I'm sure you'll agree with me that most of us use classic tap water at home for watering the plants, some may even use standing water (which doesn't change the quality of the water, it's still just tap water), someone is lucky, and has tap water that is also very soft without calcium and chlorine.
the filling water should be at room temperature.
the frequency of watering depends on many factors: the type of substrate in which the plant grows, the humidity and temperature of the surrounding environment, the size of the plant, the variety of anthurium, etc.

Water the plant only when the substrate is almost dry. Too frequent watering can cause rotting of the roots and thus the gradual death of the whole plant. Insufficient watering can cause plants to dry out.

How do I know that my anthurium needs watering? Very quickly and easily: by weighting the plant = according to weight) or by finger test - by sticking your finger into the substrate, or with the help of a hygrometer (which is already a higher level).

Humidity: Anthurium is, as already mentioned, a tropical plant, so it loves not only high temperature, but also high humidity. If we provide the plant with enough moisture (our plants grow at 60-70% humidity), they will reward you with perfect leaves without damages. At low humidity, the plant may have a problem with leaf unwrapping, they may open imperfectly, they may be mechanically damaged, etc. Higher humidity is not a problem.

Substrate: It is not possible to directly specify which substrate is the best for anthuriums. We can say that anthuriums grow excellently in pure perlite (semihydro), in a drainage mixture, in PON, in pure sphagnum. Someone grows them in hydroponics, while someone else prefers expanded clay. It will probably be easier to say which type of substrate is completely unsuitable for anthurium: heavy, impermeable substrates. Excessive watering and insufficient drying of the substrate can cause rotting of the root and then the death of the whole plant.

NOTE: You can mix the substrate yourself at home, and of course use it for other plants as well. We also mix our own substrate for our anthuriums: peat with long hair, perlite, peat with short hair, coconut fiber and additives (all in a certain proportion).

Fertilizing: We recommend liquid fertilizer for green indoor plants, if you already have some at home, you can use it with confidence. Dosing according to the label, stir the recommended amount well in the water and use. We recommend using every second watering throughout the year (if they grow under the same conditions = temperature and humidity).

These were the most important tips for Anthurium care, if you liked our article or if you have any questions, comments, please use the form below this post.

Many other topics are related to anthuriums, which we will gradually bring to you soon (insects, problems, types of anthurium, propagation of anthurium and more).

ANTHURIUM PLANTS for SALE